“The obvious question is, why isn’t the river frozen? Does anyone know the answer?” The eight of us huddled in our down parkas and snow boots on the banks of the river look at the water tumbling between banks thick with snow and shrug helplessly. Even the Canadians who live just forty miles away have no ideas. Given the below-zero temperature and the knee-deep snow, it certainly seems a mystery.
The explanation, it turns out, is the key to why the Maligne Canyon Ice Walk — the outdoor adventure on which we’ve just embarked — is so utterly and completely unique. In fact, there’s nowhere else in north America where you can see what we’ve donned rubber boots and cleats to see here, which is why we’ve come all the way from various parts of the U.S. and Canada to see it. (See below for practical tips on how to visit Maligne Canyon and Jasper National Park.)
The answer, when it comes, is geology. Geology having to do with underground springs and fissures in the rock. This area of Jasper National Park, which also contains Medicine Lake, a lake famed for disappearing mysteriously at the height of the summer glacier melt despite having no outlet, is riddled with underground springs. And of course underground springs don’t freeze. So even during Rocky Mountain winters during which temperatures can hover around zero for months at a time and entire lakes freeze solid within weeks, the Maligne River does not freeze. Or at least it doesn’t freeze solid.
Instead, the water freezes bit by bit in shallow layers of ice that builds itself into waves, swirls, sheets, and waterfalls that are spectacular to see. It’s as if nature put on an ice carving show deep in a canyon with nothing but the foxes, elk and bighorn sheep to witness it. There are waterfalls of ice 30 feet high, icicles taller than I am, and caves walled by solid ice that drips bit by bit from rock overhangs. Going inside the caves, accessed through tunnels of ice, is like seeing what it would look like inside a gigantic diamond.
The ice isn’t the only thing about hiking Maligne Canyon in winter that’s magical. The other thing that feels magical is that you can be here at all. As summertime visitors to Jasper know well, you can’t get down to the Maligne River when it’s flowing. The trail skirts the tops of the cliffs, and the closest you can get to the water thundering through the sheer rock walls of the canyon is to peer down on it from above. But in winter, as layers of ice cover the top of the river (the water’s still flowing underneath) you can walk up the canyon itself, gazing in awe up at sheer granite cliffs that tower above, looming so closely over the river they almost meet above.
Our guide, Chris Roy of Overlander Trekking and Tours, points out the line of moss indicating summer high water levels well above head height, leaving us to imagine the force of the water as it’s channeled by the narrow rock walls around and above us. Even the part of the river that is navigable is classified by kayakers a Class 5, safe only for the most experienced pros. This means the Maligne Canyon Ice Walk is an ephemeral treat; guides start taking people up the canyon at the beginning of December, when they’ve deemed the ice solid enough to stand on, and stop at the end of March when it gets too soft.
As part of Jasper National Park, Maligne Canyon is open to all and the road to the trailhead is plowed, so you don’t have to come with a guide. But the trail down to the canyon would be hard to find without a local to show you so if you do come alone, get good directions first. And don’t try it without knee-high rubber boots and ice cleats, necessary to navigate areas where new springwater hasn’t frozen yet and to prevent slipping on the sheets of ice.
So for first time visitors, I’d recommend a guided trip; the three-hour treks are led by two outfitters, Overlander Trekking and Jasper Adventure Centre. Pickups are available from your hotel, so there’s no need to drive if snow driving isn’t your thing.
I've spent good time exploring Banff in the depths of winter — and your post reminds me it's been far too long since last I was there. Not yet made it over to Jasper, so thanks for sharing your experiences and great photos.
What an amazing place! I would love to see the ice waterfall.
Jasper National Park is so beautiful It's one of my favorite areas. I've always wanted to see it in the winter. Did you find the ice walk difficult? Would you recommend this experience for baby boomers? Ah, you see where I'm going with this – a winter trip to Jasper Lake Lodge just might be in the making.
"The inside of a diamond"? What beautiful, evocative writing.
I so enjoyed reading this, Melanie. When I think of ice, all I think of is slipping and sliding and how I hate the winter. What a new and beautiful way to look at it!
What an amazing sounding trip, Melanie. This is something that sounds so unique and magnificent. I want to go here!
I'm glad everyone's enjoying this one. It was very inspiring, to be sure. To answer the practical questions, yes, it's fine for relatively inexperienced hikers, since they teach you some techniques for walking with the cleats and as long as you use those, you're not in too much danger of slipping and falling, though one person on our trip did do a skid. As for boomers, I don't think age is a big limitation, but there is one issue which is girth. The tunnel to get into the ice cave is narrow, and there were a few people in our group who declined to go into the cave because it seemed pretty clear they wouldn't fit through the tunnel. But all they missed was the 10 minutes in the cave (though it was spectacular), and they were able to do everything else. The hike is about two to three hours in length. Some people do add an ice climbing activity, but that's definitely not for the faint of heart!
Wow, those photos look spectacular! The description sounds amazing, too.
The Maligne Canyon Icewalk Tour is completely amazing! Well worth it!
Urban Insight Travel http://www.urbaninsight.ca have some great packages that include the tour with accommodation etc.
The Maligne Canyon ice walk is absolutely beautiful. We went in early spring and it was perfect. Probably the highlight of our 5 day trip to Jasper. It can be a little difficult in some areas but, nothing to serious and the guide will allow you to take breaks if necessary.
It is definitely something everyone should explore!!
I've never heard of Jasper National Park. Sounds like a great place to explore. Thanks for the info–and the amazing pictures.
Beautiful. What fabulous photos and evocative writing to go with them.
Wow, your writing has such a melody to it! Love the pictures and would love to visit this beautiful place one day.
You make the ice and snow look and sound so inviting, Melanie.
Now, where is that down coat, as for knee high rubber boots, I'm assuming you can rent those for just such an adventure.
Thanks for this beautiful post on the area I am lucky enough to call home, Jasper. And it was great to meet you Melanie – take care!
Leigh Abra, Jasper
The photos are just spectacular – I want to do this. Wow. Oh. Wow.
The photos are breathtaking. I would never have expected that answer as to why it doesn't freeze (or does so in that particular way).
Sounds like you had an awesome experience in Jasper.
The Maligne Canyon Ice Walk is on the Ultimate List of Jasper National Park Activities – under the list of winter activities.
http://jasperjournal.com/activities/ultimate-list-of-jasper-national-park-activities
Jasper Adventure Centre hosts the Maligne Canyon Walk at 10am , 2pm and 7pm daily!! You can book directly from your hotel or other accommodations by phone, or book online to save a few dollars!! http://www.jasperadventurecentre.com See you on the Ice!!
What a neat place – and your photos are gorgeous. But – brr!
Hi Melanie,
We were recently included together on a list about travel tips at HikeBikeTravel.com.
I just wrote a quick post about it on our travel site BeersAndBeans.com and I provided a link back to your site. You can check it out here:
http://beersandbeans.com/2010/02/14/hikebiketravel-com-thanks-for-the-shout-out/
I just wanted to let you know.
I also took a quick poke around your site and it's great, I will def. be checking back again soon!
- Have a great day, Beth & Randy
http://www.BeersAndBeans.com
I would have to agree with you fully on anything in Jasper making the bucket list! Mount Robson is a great place too. Mount Robson is like a really nice, quiet neighbor who keeps the yard looking good and has no barking dogs. The only “barking dogs” are the “tired feet” of hikers.